http://www.bloominglabs.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Josh&feedformat=atomBloominglabs - User contributions [en]2024-03-28T14:55:32ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.20.2http://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/Engage_10Engage 102017-01-17T22:41:09Z<p>Josh: /* Wireless USB (WUSB) Connection */</p>
<hr />
<div>Engage 10 Wireless LCD Model number : W10T200-HWH1WH<br />
<br />
These devices were intended to be WUSB touchscreens. <br />
They include an internal WUSB device dongle, an internal USB hub, a USB displaylink video chip feeding VGA to an LCD driver, and a USB HID touchscreen. <br />
<br />
The LCD seems to be 1024 x 600 native resolution. <br />
They will do 1024 x 768, but it does not look as good.<br />
<br />
The box should include the display, an external WUSB host dongle, a 12 volt (usually 3 amp) power supply and a USB A to USB A cable. <br />
The cable was included just to allow pairing between the WUSB dongles, but it can be used to connect the display directly to the computer. <br />
<br />
The pairing process seems to be tricky...<br />
<br />
The displaylink chip is a DL-125, old and well supported. <br />
<br />
* The current raspbian image has a kernel module driver for it. <br />
<br />
* Current Ubuntu distrubtions seem to hot plug the display and bring up GUI to configure it, but guess the resolution badly. <br />
<br />
* Current Debian distrubtions seem to have the driver, but they do not bring up any GUI to configure it. <br />
<br />
* Windows XP works after installing a displaylink driver, I have not tried newer versions on the metal, and had trouble with 7 on a VM. <br />
<br />
In general, plugging the display into a linux computer should cause a new fb device to show up in /dev/ and you can then do what you like with it, including x11. <br />
A solid green screen is generally a sign that the driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wired USB Connection ==<br />
I have not actually gotten WUSB to work. <br />
I have not tried very hard because it does not seem very useful.<br />
<br />
Instead, I have been using the included USB cable. <br />
On a very few devices the external USB port will work. <br />
In general, however, you will need to open the case, remove the WUSB module and plug the cable into the internal USB port. <br />
You can use a round file or similar tool to make a notch in the case for the cable.<br />
<br />
If lsusb lists a displaylink device, USB is working.<br />
<br />
A solid green screen means the linux framebuffer driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wireless USB (WUSB) Connection ==<br />
Initial study of the removed chip from the base station indicates it's a WISair chipset. According to Linux-Usb, they are not actually compliant with the 1.0 spec of WUSB, but there seems to be workarounds. source: [https://www.spinics.net/lists/linux-usb/msg44020.html link Linux-USB mailing list]<br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the plastic-coated dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
<pre>[ 432.176018] usb 3-1: new high-speed USB device number 9 using sw-ehci<br />
[ 432.338051] usb 3-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=1200<br />
[ 432.350885] usb 3-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 432.361752] usb 3-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 432.369034] usb 3-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 432.375874] usb 3-1: SerialNumber: 123456789</pre><br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the internally removed dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
<pre>[ 1499.735961] The port change to OHCI now!<br />
[ 1500.038747] usb 4-1: new full-speed USB device number 2 using sw-ohci<br />
[ 1500.237326] usb 4-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=0611<br />
[ 1500.250176] usb 4-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 1500.261018] usb 4-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 1500.268292] usb 4-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 1500.275090] usb 4-1: SerialNumber: 123456789</pre><br />
<br />
(That serial number looks awwwwfully suspect....)<br />
<br />
<br />
idVendor of 13cf does also show a Wisair, however that idProduct isn't known yet. This should be solved by simply binding the device to the appropriate driver, heeding caution to load the modules in the link above in the prescribed order. Follow how to do that [http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/134878/make-linux-load-specific-driver-for-given-device-realtek-nic link Here]<br />
<br />
This seems to be the best document on how to use the WUSB subsystem: [https://www.kernel.org/doc/ols/2007/ols2007v2-pages-127-134.pdf link PDF].<br />
<br />
Long story short, you have to match the channels on the sending and receiving end. Once you match channels, then the devices over the WUSB enumerate on your local machine as /sys/bus/uwb/devices/uwb0/ (assuming your device is uwb0).<br />
<br />
As I understand, you:<br />
<br />
<pre>echo 13 0 > /sys/class/uwb_rc/uwb0/beacon</pre><br />
The 13 is the channel number. You'll have to manually change to find other connections *listening*.<br />
<br />
== Raspberry Pi Config ==<br />
To configure raspbian to use the display create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/60-pluggable.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "Device" <br />
Identifier "displaylink device" <br />
driver "fbdev" <br />
Option "fbdev" "/dev/fb1" <br />
Option "ShadowFB" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Monitor" <br />
Identifier "displaylink monitor" <br />
DisplaySize 221 129<br />
Modeline "1024x600_60.00" 49.00 1024 1149 1245 1312 600 601 611 624 -hsync +vsync<br />
Option "DPMS" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Screen" <br />
Identifier "displaylink screen" <br />
Device "displaylink device" <br />
Monitor "displaylink monitor"<br />
DefaultDepth 16<br />
SubSection "Display"<br />
Depth 16<br />
Modes "1024x600_60.00"<br />
EndSubSection<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "ServerLayout" <br />
Identifier "Default Layout" <br />
Screen 0 "displaylink screen" 0 0 <br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
That should take care of the display, it is probably not optimal for any particular use. <br />
I have been playing with this a lot, and there may be interesting examples on the talk page.<br />
<br />
You might want to enable SSH before rebooting, just in case...<br />
<br />
/dev/fb0 is the HDMI/composite output, displaylink devices start at /dev/fb1, but if you have other framebuffer devices it could get tricky...<br />
<br />
To get a starting calibration for the touch screen create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/98-touch-calibration.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "InputClass"<br />
Identifier "calibration"<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax Inc. USB TouchController"<br />
Option "Calibration" "25 4032 184 3982"<br />
Option "SwapAxes" "1"<br />
Option "InvertX" "0"<br />
Option "InvertY" "1"<br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Hopefully that gets it in the right orientation, you can just play with the numbers or use xinput_calibrator (from package xinput-calibrator) to fine tune them. <br />
Xinput_calibrator seems to find good numbers, but does not use the InvertY option, it just makes MinY bigger than MaxY which did not work for me.<br />
<br />
== Hacking ==<br />
<br />
=== Case ===<br />
The case comes apart easily. <br />
There are screws in the corners and plastic clips holding the bottom of the case to top. <br />
<br />
It is easy to notch the bottom case half to clear a USB cable plugged into the internal port. I used a round file. you can make it a tight fit on the cable or put a cable tie around the cable inside the case to take any tension. <br />
<br />
=== USB ===<br />
The upstream port of the onboard USB hub is connected to U28. <br />
U28 is also connected to the internal USB port (CN1, for the WUSB module) and the external USB port (CN5). <br />
I believe that U28 either connects the WUSB to the external port for pairing, or to the onboard USB hub for normal operation. <br />
Simply removing the WUSB module and plugging the cable into the internal port allows wired USB operation. <br />
<br />
The onboard USB hub is an NEC 720114, which has 4 downstream ports. <br />
One port goes to the DL chip (U5) and one goes to the touch controller (U15). <br />
The two unused ports are available at R115-116 and R303-304.<br />
<br />
Removing R311 (near CN5 pin 1) and connecting pins 1 of the USB ports together provides power on the external port, suitable for a pi. <br />
For higher current needs you might need to get +5v from a different source...<br />
<br />
[[File:USB_hack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|]] <br />
<br />
Turning it into a downstream high speed USB port takes a bit more work. <br />
* Remove R303 and R304<br />
* Cut the left 2 traces between T1 and U28, being careful not to damage the 2 traces on the right<br />
* Wire the bottom R304 pad to the left T1 pin you just cut away from U28<br />
* Wire the bottom R303 pad to the right T1 pin you cut away from U28 then connecting the USB side (bottom) R303 pad to CN5 pin 2 and R304 to pin 3.<br />
<br />
If you need one more port for a keyboard or mouse you can try to wire it directly into R115-116, but without U2 and T1 I have only gotten full speed devices to work, not high speed. <br />
It would be nice to know what U2 is.<br />
<br />
=== VGA ===<br />
I have cut the traces on the displaylink (left) side of J5 and fed VGA into J5. <br />
This has worked briefly a few times, I think I was just having trouble generating acceptable resolutions. <br />
I think it has promise.<br />
<br />
Interestingly, the ¨Searching¨ icon was still present, so it must come from the RTD2033V chip.<br />
<br />
=== Power ===<br />
12 volt current draw is about 550mA for the screen and 800mA for the screen and a pi 2B.<br />
<br />
DC in (12v nominal, 12.10 right now) and ground are available at J7. <br />
<br />
A slightly lower voltage (11.75v right now) is on J4 and TC4. <br />
This is unregulated, with a 14.35v supply it is 14.00v. <br />
<br />
5 volts and ground is available at J3 and TC22. <br />
<br />
3.3 volts and ground is available at U8 and TC16. <br />
<br />
1.25 volts is made by U27. <br />
<br />
It would be nice to know how much 5v current is available...<br />
<br />
=== Power Saving ===<br />
Raspbian seems to try to put the display into some power saving mode. <br />
It fails to turn off the LCD, but the display glitches when you would expect it to turn the LCD back on. <br />
<br />
Well, I turned off DPMS in xorg.conf, and now the screen blanks. <br />
Different, but not really better...<br />
<br />
It would be nice to know exactly what is going on with that...<br />
<br />
=== Buttons ===<br />
It would be nice to figure out how the buttons work. At least 4 of them should come over the USB somehow. <br />
I did not see them in /dev/input/ so they might be connected to the displaylink rather than the HID...</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/File:DisplayLink_USB_Graphics_Software_for_Ubuntu_1.2.zipFile:DisplayLink USB Graphics Software for Ubuntu 1.2.zip2017-01-17T05:44:40Z<p>Josh: </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/Engage_10Engage 102017-01-17T03:11:15Z<p>Josh: /* Wireless USB (WUSB) Connection */</p>
<hr />
<div>Engage 10 Wireless LCD Model number : W10T200-HWH1WH<br />
<br />
These devices were intended to be WUSB touchscreens. <br />
They include an internal WUSB device dongle, an internal USB hub, a USB displaylink video chip feeding VGA to an LCD driver, and a USB HID touchscreen. <br />
<br />
The LCD seems to be 1024 x 600 native resolution. <br />
They will do 1024 x 768, but it does not look as good.<br />
<br />
The box should include the display, an external WUSB host dongle, a 12 volt (usually 3 amp) power supply and a USB A to USB A cable. <br />
The cable was included just to allow pairing between the WUSB dongles, but it can be used to connect the display directly to the computer. <br />
<br />
The pairing process seems to be tricky...<br />
<br />
The displaylink chip is a DL-125, old and well supported. <br />
<br />
* The current raspbian image has a kernel module driver for it. <br />
<br />
* Current Ubuntu distrubtions seem to hot plug the display and bring up GUI to configure it, but guess the resolution badly. <br />
<br />
* Current Debian distrubtions seem to have the driver, but they do not bring up any GUI to configure it. <br />
<br />
* Windows XP works after installing a displaylink driver, I have not tried newer versions on the metal, and had trouble with 7 on a VM. <br />
<br />
In general, plugging the display into a linux computer should cause a new fb device to show up in /dev/ and you can then do what you like with it, including x11. <br />
A solid green screen is generally a sign that the driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wired USB Connection ==<br />
I have not actually gotten WUSB to work. <br />
I have not tried very hard because it does not seem very useful.<br />
<br />
Instead, I have been using the included USB cable. <br />
On a very few devices the external USB port will work. <br />
In general, however, you will need to open the case, remove the WUSB module and plug the cable into the internal USB port. <br />
You can use a round file or similar tool to make a notch in the case for the cable.<br />
<br />
If lsusb lists a displaylink device, USB is working.<br />
<br />
A solid green screen means the linux framebuffer driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wireless USB (WUSB) Connection ==<br />
Initial study of the removed chip from the base station indicates it's a WISair chipset. According to Linux-Usb, they are not actually compliant with the 1.0 spec of WUSB, but there seems to be workarounds. source: [https://www.spinics.net/lists/linux-usb/msg44020.html link Linux-USB mailing list]<br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the plastic-coated dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
<pre>[ 432.176018] usb 3-1: new high-speed USB device number 9 using sw-ehci<br />
[ 432.338051] usb 3-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=1200<br />
[ 432.350885] usb 3-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 432.361752] usb 3-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 432.369034] usb 3-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 432.375874] usb 3-1: SerialNumber: 123456789</pre><br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the internally removed dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
<pre>[ 1499.735961] The port change to OHCI now!<br />
[ 1500.038747] usb 4-1: new full-speed USB device number 2 using sw-ohci<br />
[ 1500.237326] usb 4-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=0611<br />
[ 1500.250176] usb 4-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 1500.261018] usb 4-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 1500.268292] usb 4-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 1500.275090] usb 4-1: SerialNumber: 123456789</pre><br />
<br />
(That serial number looks awwwwfully suspect....)<br />
<br />
<br />
idVendor of 13cf does also show a Wisair, however that idProduct isn't known yet. This should be solved by simply binding the device to the appropriate driver, heeding caution to load the modules in the link above in the prescribed order. Follow how to do that [http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/134878/make-linux-load-specific-driver-for-given-device-realtek-nic link Here]<br />
<br />
== Raspberry Pi Config ==<br />
To configure raspbian to use the display create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/60-pluggable.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "Device" <br />
Identifier "displaylink device" <br />
driver "fbdev" <br />
Option "fbdev" "/dev/fb1" <br />
Option "ShadowFB" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Monitor" <br />
Identifier "displaylink monitor" <br />
DisplaySize 221 129<br />
Modeline "1024x600_60.00" 49.00 1024 1149 1245 1312 600 601 611 624 -hsync +vsync<br />
Option "DPMS" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Screen" <br />
Identifier "displaylink screen" <br />
Device "displaylink device" <br />
Monitor "displaylink monitor"<br />
DefaultDepth 16<br />
SubSection "Display"<br />
Depth 16<br />
Modes "1024x600_60.00"<br />
EndSubSection<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "ServerLayout" <br />
Identifier "Default Layout" <br />
Screen 0 "displaylink screen" 0 0 <br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
That should take care of the display, it is probably not optimal for any particular use. <br />
I have been playing with this a lot, and there may be interesting examples on the talk page.<br />
<br />
You might want to enable SSH before rebooting, just in case...<br />
<br />
/dev/fb0 is the HDMI/composite output, displaylink devices start at /dev/fb1, but if you have other framebuffer devices it could get tricky...<br />
<br />
To get a starting calibration for the touch screen create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/98-touch-calibration.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "InputClass"<br />
Identifier "calibration"<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax Inc. USB TouchController"<br />
Option "Calibration" "25 4032 184 3982"<br />
Option "SwapAxes" "1"<br />
Option "InvertX" "0"<br />
Option "InvertY" "1"<br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Hopefully that gets it in the right orientation, you can just play with the numbers or use xinput_calibrator (from package xinput-calibrator) to fine tune them. <br />
Xinput_calibrator seems to find good numbers, but does not use the InvertY option, it just makes MinY bigger than MaxY which did not work for me.<br />
<br />
== Hacking ==<br />
<br />
=== Case ===<br />
The case comes apart easily. <br />
There are screws in the corners and plastic clips holding the bottom of the case to top. <br />
<br />
It is easy to notch the bottom case half to clear a USB cable plugged into the internal port. I used a round file. you can make it a tight fit on the cable or put a cable tie around the cable inside the case to take any tension. <br />
<br />
=== USB ===<br />
The upstream port of the onboard USB hub is connected to U28. <br />
U28 is also connected to the internal USB port (CN1, for the WUSB module) and the external USB port (CN5). <br />
I believe that U28 either connects the WUSB to the external port for pairing, or to the onboard USB hub for normal operation. <br />
Simply removing the WUSB module and plugging the cable into the internal port allows wired USB operation. <br />
<br />
The onboard USB hub is an NEC 720114, which has 4 downstream ports. <br />
One port goes to the DL chip (U5) and one goes to the touch controller (U15). <br />
The two unused ports are available at R115-116 and R303-304.<br />
<br />
Removing R311 (near CN5 pin 1) and connecting pins 1 of the USB ports together provides power on the external port, suitable for a pi. <br />
For higher current needs you might need to get +5v from a different source...<br />
<br />
[[File:USB_hack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|]] <br />
<br />
Turning it into a downstream high speed USB port takes a bit more work. <br />
* Remove R303 and R304<br />
* Cut the left 2 traces between T1 and U28, being careful not to damage the 2 traces on the right<br />
* Wire the bottom R304 pad to the left T1 pin you just cut away from U28<br />
* Wire the bottom R303 pad to the right T1 pin you cut away from U28 then connecting the USB side (bottom) R303 pad to CN5 pin 2 and R304 to pin 3.<br />
<br />
If you need one more port for a keyboard or mouse you can try to wire it directly into R115-116, but without U2 and T1 I have only gotten full speed devices to work, not high speed. <br />
It would be nice to know what U2 is.<br />
<br />
=== VGA ===<br />
I have cut the traces on the displaylink (left) side of J5 and fed VGA into J5. <br />
This has worked briefly a few times, I think I was just having trouble generating acceptable resolutions. <br />
I think it has promise.<br />
<br />
Interestingly, the ¨Searching¨ icon was still present, so it must come from the RTD2033V chip.<br />
<br />
=== Power ===<br />
12 volt current draw is about 550mA for the screen and 800mA for the screen and a pi 2B.<br />
<br />
DC in (12v nominal, 12.10 right now) and ground are available at J7. <br />
<br />
A slightly lower voltage (11.75v right now) is on J4 and TC4. <br />
This is unregulated, with a 14.35v supply it is 14.00v. <br />
<br />
5 volts and ground is available at J3 and TC22. <br />
<br />
3.3 volts and ground is available at U8 and TC16. <br />
<br />
1.25 volts is made by U27. <br />
<br />
It would be nice to know how much 5v current is available...<br />
<br />
=== Power Saving ===<br />
Raspbian seems to try to put the display into some power saving mode. <br />
It fails to turn off the LCD, but the display glitches when you would expect it to turn the LCD back on. <br />
<br />
Well, I turned off DPMS in xorg.conf, and now the screen blanks. <br />
Different, but not really better...<br />
<br />
It would be nice to know exactly what is going on with that...<br />
<br />
=== Buttons ===<br />
It would be nice to figure out how the buttons work. At least 4 of them should come over the USB somehow. <br />
I did not see them in /dev/input/ so they might be connected to the displaylink rather than the HID...</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/Engage_10Engage 102017-01-17T03:10:33Z<p>Josh: /* Wireless USB (WUSB) Connection */</p>
<hr />
<div>Engage 10 Wireless LCD Model number : W10T200-HWH1WH<br />
<br />
These devices were intended to be WUSB touchscreens. <br />
They include an internal WUSB device dongle, an internal USB hub, a USB displaylink video chip feeding VGA to an LCD driver, and a USB HID touchscreen. <br />
<br />
The LCD seems to be 1024 x 600 native resolution. <br />
They will do 1024 x 768, but it does not look as good.<br />
<br />
The box should include the display, an external WUSB host dongle, a 12 volt (usually 3 amp) power supply and a USB A to USB A cable. <br />
The cable was included just to allow pairing between the WUSB dongles, but it can be used to connect the display directly to the computer. <br />
<br />
The pairing process seems to be tricky...<br />
<br />
The displaylink chip is a DL-125, old and well supported. <br />
<br />
* The current raspbian image has a kernel module driver for it. <br />
<br />
* Current Ubuntu distrubtions seem to hot plug the display and bring up GUI to configure it, but guess the resolution badly. <br />
<br />
* Current Debian distrubtions seem to have the driver, but they do not bring up any GUI to configure it. <br />
<br />
* Windows XP works after installing a displaylink driver, I have not tried newer versions on the metal, and had trouble with 7 on a VM. <br />
<br />
In general, plugging the display into a linux computer should cause a new fb device to show up in /dev/ and you can then do what you like with it, including x11. <br />
A solid green screen is generally a sign that the driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wired USB Connection ==<br />
I have not actually gotten WUSB to work. <br />
I have not tried very hard because it does not seem very useful.<br />
<br />
Instead, I have been using the included USB cable. <br />
On a very few devices the external USB port will work. <br />
In general, however, you will need to open the case, remove the WUSB module and plug the cable into the internal USB port. <br />
You can use a round file or similar tool to make a notch in the case for the cable.<br />
<br />
If lsusb lists a displaylink device, USB is working.<br />
<br />
A solid green screen means the linux framebuffer driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wireless USB (WUSB) Connection ==<br />
Initial study of the removed chip from the base station indicates it's a WISair chipset. According to Linux-Usb, they are not actually compliant with the 1.0 spec of WUSB, but there seems to be workarounds. source: [https://www.spinics.net/lists/linux-usb/msg44020.html link Linux-USB mailing list]<br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the plastic-coated dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>[ 432.176018] usb 3-1: new high-speed USB device number 9 using sw-ehci<br />
[ 432.338051] usb 3-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=1200<br />
[ 432.350885] usb 3-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 432.361752] usb 3-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 432.369034] usb 3-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 432.375874] usb 3-1: SerialNumber: 123456789</nowiki><br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the internally removed dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
<nowiki>[ 1499.735961] The port change to OHCI now!<br />
[ 1500.038747] usb 4-1: new full-speed USB device number 2 using sw-ohci<br />
[ 1500.237326] usb 4-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=0611<br />
[ 1500.250176] usb 4-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 1500.261018] usb 4-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 1500.268292] usb 4-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 1500.275090] usb 4-1: SerialNumber: 123456789</nowiki><br />
<br />
(That serial number looks awwwwfully suspect....)<br />
<br />
<br />
idVendor of 13cf does also show a Wisair, however that idProduct isn't known yet. This should be solved by simply binding the device to the appropriate driver, heeding caution to load the modules in the link above in the prescribed order. Follow how to do that [http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/134878/make-linux-load-specific-driver-for-given-device-realtek-nic link Here]<br />
<br />
== Raspberry Pi Config ==<br />
To configure raspbian to use the display create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/60-pluggable.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "Device" <br />
Identifier "displaylink device" <br />
driver "fbdev" <br />
Option "fbdev" "/dev/fb1" <br />
Option "ShadowFB" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Monitor" <br />
Identifier "displaylink monitor" <br />
DisplaySize 221 129<br />
Modeline "1024x600_60.00" 49.00 1024 1149 1245 1312 600 601 611 624 -hsync +vsync<br />
Option "DPMS" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Screen" <br />
Identifier "displaylink screen" <br />
Device "displaylink device" <br />
Monitor "displaylink monitor"<br />
DefaultDepth 16<br />
SubSection "Display"<br />
Depth 16<br />
Modes "1024x600_60.00"<br />
EndSubSection<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "ServerLayout" <br />
Identifier "Default Layout" <br />
Screen 0 "displaylink screen" 0 0 <br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
That should take care of the display, it is probably not optimal for any particular use. <br />
I have been playing with this a lot, and there may be interesting examples on the talk page.<br />
<br />
You might want to enable SSH before rebooting, just in case...<br />
<br />
/dev/fb0 is the HDMI/composite output, displaylink devices start at /dev/fb1, but if you have other framebuffer devices it could get tricky...<br />
<br />
To get a starting calibration for the touch screen create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/98-touch-calibration.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "InputClass"<br />
Identifier "calibration"<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax Inc. USB TouchController"<br />
Option "Calibration" "25 4032 184 3982"<br />
Option "SwapAxes" "1"<br />
Option "InvertX" "0"<br />
Option "InvertY" "1"<br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Hopefully that gets it in the right orientation, you can just play with the numbers or use xinput_calibrator (from package xinput-calibrator) to fine tune them. <br />
Xinput_calibrator seems to find good numbers, but does not use the InvertY option, it just makes MinY bigger than MaxY which did not work for me.<br />
<br />
== Hacking ==<br />
<br />
=== Case ===<br />
The case comes apart easily. <br />
There are screws in the corners and plastic clips holding the bottom of the case to top. <br />
<br />
It is easy to notch the bottom case half to clear a USB cable plugged into the internal port. I used a round file. you can make it a tight fit on the cable or put a cable tie around the cable inside the case to take any tension. <br />
<br />
=== USB ===<br />
The upstream port of the onboard USB hub is connected to U28. <br />
U28 is also connected to the internal USB port (CN1, for the WUSB module) and the external USB port (CN5). <br />
I believe that U28 either connects the WUSB to the external port for pairing, or to the onboard USB hub for normal operation. <br />
Simply removing the WUSB module and plugging the cable into the internal port allows wired USB operation. <br />
<br />
The onboard USB hub is an NEC 720114, which has 4 downstream ports. <br />
One port goes to the DL chip (U5) and one goes to the touch controller (U15). <br />
The two unused ports are available at R115-116 and R303-304.<br />
<br />
Removing R311 (near CN5 pin 1) and connecting pins 1 of the USB ports together provides power on the external port, suitable for a pi. <br />
For higher current needs you might need to get +5v from a different source...<br />
<br />
[[File:USB_hack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|]] <br />
<br />
Turning it into a downstream high speed USB port takes a bit more work. <br />
* Remove R303 and R304<br />
* Cut the left 2 traces between T1 and U28, being careful not to damage the 2 traces on the right<br />
* Wire the bottom R304 pad to the left T1 pin you just cut away from U28<br />
* Wire the bottom R303 pad to the right T1 pin you cut away from U28 then connecting the USB side (bottom) R303 pad to CN5 pin 2 and R304 to pin 3.<br />
<br />
If you need one more port for a keyboard or mouse you can try to wire it directly into R115-116, but without U2 and T1 I have only gotten full speed devices to work, not high speed. <br />
It would be nice to know what U2 is.<br />
<br />
=== VGA ===<br />
I have cut the traces on the displaylink (left) side of J5 and fed VGA into J5. <br />
This has worked briefly a few times, I think I was just having trouble generating acceptable resolutions. <br />
I think it has promise.<br />
<br />
Interestingly, the ¨Searching¨ icon was still present, so it must come from the RTD2033V chip.<br />
<br />
=== Power ===<br />
12 volt current draw is about 550mA for the screen and 800mA for the screen and a pi 2B.<br />
<br />
DC in (12v nominal, 12.10 right now) and ground are available at J7. <br />
<br />
A slightly lower voltage (11.75v right now) is on J4 and TC4. <br />
This is unregulated, with a 14.35v supply it is 14.00v. <br />
<br />
5 volts and ground is available at J3 and TC22. <br />
<br />
3.3 volts and ground is available at U8 and TC16. <br />
<br />
1.25 volts is made by U27. <br />
<br />
It would be nice to know how much 5v current is available...<br />
<br />
=== Power Saving ===<br />
Raspbian seems to try to put the display into some power saving mode. <br />
It fails to turn off the LCD, but the display glitches when you would expect it to turn the LCD back on. <br />
<br />
Well, I turned off DPMS in xorg.conf, and now the screen blanks. <br />
Different, but not really better...<br />
<br />
It would be nice to know exactly what is going on with that...<br />
<br />
=== Buttons ===<br />
It would be nice to figure out how the buttons work. At least 4 of them should come over the USB somehow. <br />
I did not see them in /dev/input/ so they might be connected to the displaylink rather than the HID...</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/Engage_10Engage 102017-01-17T03:09:10Z<p>Josh: Addition of WUSB section and notes</p>
<hr />
<div>Engage 10 Wireless LCD Model number : W10T200-HWH1WH<br />
<br />
These devices were intended to be WUSB touchscreens. <br />
They include an internal WUSB device dongle, an internal USB hub, a USB displaylink video chip feeding VGA to an LCD driver, and a USB HID touchscreen. <br />
<br />
The LCD seems to be 1024 x 600 native resolution. <br />
They will do 1024 x 768, but it does not look as good.<br />
<br />
The box should include the display, an external WUSB host dongle, a 12 volt (usually 3 amp) power supply and a USB A to USB A cable. <br />
The cable was included just to allow pairing between the WUSB dongles, but it can be used to connect the display directly to the computer. <br />
<br />
The pairing process seems to be tricky...<br />
<br />
The displaylink chip is a DL-125, old and well supported. <br />
<br />
* The current raspbian image has a kernel module driver for it. <br />
<br />
* Current Ubuntu distrubtions seem to hot plug the display and bring up GUI to configure it, but guess the resolution badly. <br />
<br />
* Current Debian distrubtions seem to have the driver, but they do not bring up any GUI to configure it. <br />
<br />
* Windows XP works after installing a displaylink driver, I have not tried newer versions on the metal, and had trouble with 7 on a VM. <br />
<br />
In general, plugging the display into a linux computer should cause a new fb device to show up in /dev/ and you can then do what you like with it, including x11. <br />
A solid green screen is generally a sign that the driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wired USB Connection ==<br />
I have not actually gotten WUSB to work. <br />
I have not tried very hard because it does not seem very useful.<br />
<br />
Instead, I have been using the included USB cable. <br />
On a very few devices the external USB port will work. <br />
In general, however, you will need to open the case, remove the WUSB module and plug the cable into the internal USB port. <br />
You can use a round file or similar tool to make a notch in the case for the cable.<br />
<br />
If lsusb lists a displaylink device, USB is working.<br />
<br />
A solid green screen means the linux framebuffer driver is working.<br />
<br />
== Wireless USB (WUSB) Connection ==<br />
Initial study of the removed chip from the base station indicates it's a WISair chipset. According to Linux-Usb, they are not actually compliant with the 1.0 spec of WUSB, but there seems to be workarounds. source: [https://www.spinics.net/lists/linux-usb/msg44020.html link Linux-USB mailing list]<br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the plastic-coated dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
[ 432.176018] usb 3-1: new high-speed USB device number 9 using sw-ehci<br />
[ 432.338051] usb 3-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=1200<br />
[ 432.350885] usb 3-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 432.361752] usb 3-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 432.369034] usb 3-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 432.375874] usb 3-1: SerialNumber: 123456789<br />
<br />
Output of dmesg when the internally removed dongle is plugged in:<br />
<br />
[ 1499.735961] The port change to OHCI now!<br />
[ 1500.038747] usb 4-1: new full-speed USB device number 2 using sw-ohci<br />
[ 1500.237326] usb 4-1: New USB device found, idVendor=13cf, idProduct=0611<br />
[ 1500.250176] usb 4-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=2, Product=1, SerialNumber=3<br />
[ 1500.261018] usb 4-1: Product: Wireless USB Dongle<br />
[ 1500.268292] usb 4-1: Manufacturer: <br />
[ 1500.275090] usb 4-1: SerialNumber: 123456789<br />
<br />
<br />
idVendor of 13cf does also show a Wisair, however that idProduct isn't known yet. This should be solved by simply binding the device to the appropriate driver, heeding caution to load the modules in the link above in the prescribed order. Follow how to do that [http://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/134878/make-linux-load-specific-driver-for-given-device-realtek-nic link Here]<br />
<br />
== Raspberry Pi Config ==<br />
To configure raspbian to use the display create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/60-pluggable.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "Device" <br />
Identifier "displaylink device" <br />
driver "fbdev" <br />
Option "fbdev" "/dev/fb1" <br />
Option "ShadowFB" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Monitor" <br />
Identifier "displaylink monitor" <br />
DisplaySize 221 129<br />
Modeline "1024x600_60.00" 49.00 1024 1149 1245 1312 600 601 611 624 -hsync +vsync<br />
Option "DPMS" "off"<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "Screen" <br />
Identifier "displaylink screen" <br />
Device "displaylink device" <br />
Monitor "displaylink monitor"<br />
DefaultDepth 16<br />
SubSection "Display"<br />
Depth 16<br />
Modes "1024x600_60.00"<br />
EndSubSection<br />
EndSection <br />
<br />
Section "ServerLayout" <br />
Identifier "Default Layout" <br />
Screen 0 "displaylink screen" 0 0 <br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
That should take care of the display, it is probably not optimal for any particular use. <br />
I have been playing with this a lot, and there may be interesting examples on the talk page.<br />
<br />
You might want to enable SSH before rebooting, just in case...<br />
<br />
/dev/fb0 is the HDMI/composite output, displaylink devices start at /dev/fb1, but if you have other framebuffer devices it could get tricky...<br />
<br />
To get a starting calibration for the touch screen create /usr/share/X11/xorg.conf.d/98-touch-calibration.conf with the following text:<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
Section "InputClass"<br />
Identifier "calibration"<br />
MatchProduct "eGalax Inc. USB TouchController"<br />
Option "Calibration" "25 4032 184 3982"<br />
Option "SwapAxes" "1"<br />
Option "InvertX" "0"<br />
Option "InvertY" "1"<br />
EndSection<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
Hopefully that gets it in the right orientation, you can just play with the numbers or use xinput_calibrator (from package xinput-calibrator) to fine tune them. <br />
Xinput_calibrator seems to find good numbers, but does not use the InvertY option, it just makes MinY bigger than MaxY which did not work for me.<br />
<br />
== Hacking ==<br />
<br />
=== Case ===<br />
The case comes apart easily. <br />
There are screws in the corners and plastic clips holding the bottom of the case to top. <br />
<br />
It is easy to notch the bottom case half to clear a USB cable plugged into the internal port. I used a round file. you can make it a tight fit on the cable or put a cable tie around the cable inside the case to take any tension. <br />
<br />
=== USB ===<br />
The upstream port of the onboard USB hub is connected to U28. <br />
U28 is also connected to the internal USB port (CN1, for the WUSB module) and the external USB port (CN5). <br />
I believe that U28 either connects the WUSB to the external port for pairing, or to the onboard USB hub for normal operation. <br />
Simply removing the WUSB module and plugging the cable into the internal port allows wired USB operation. <br />
<br />
The onboard USB hub is an NEC 720114, which has 4 downstream ports. <br />
One port goes to the DL chip (U5) and one goes to the touch controller (U15). <br />
The two unused ports are available at R115-116 and R303-304.<br />
<br />
Removing R311 (near CN5 pin 1) and connecting pins 1 of the USB ports together provides power on the external port, suitable for a pi. <br />
For higher current needs you might need to get +5v from a different source...<br />
<br />
[[File:USB_hack.jpg|300px|thumb|right|]] <br />
<br />
Turning it into a downstream high speed USB port takes a bit more work. <br />
* Remove R303 and R304<br />
* Cut the left 2 traces between T1 and U28, being careful not to damage the 2 traces on the right<br />
* Wire the bottom R304 pad to the left T1 pin you just cut away from U28<br />
* Wire the bottom R303 pad to the right T1 pin you cut away from U28 then connecting the USB side (bottom) R303 pad to CN5 pin 2 and R304 to pin 3.<br />
<br />
If you need one more port for a keyboard or mouse you can try to wire it directly into R115-116, but without U2 and T1 I have only gotten full speed devices to work, not high speed. <br />
It would be nice to know what U2 is.<br />
<br />
=== VGA ===<br />
I have cut the traces on the displaylink (left) side of J5 and fed VGA into J5. <br />
This has worked briefly a few times, I think I was just having trouble generating acceptable resolutions. <br />
I think it has promise.<br />
<br />
Interestingly, the ¨Searching¨ icon was still present, so it must come from the RTD2033V chip.<br />
<br />
=== Power ===<br />
12 volt current draw is about 550mA for the screen and 800mA for the screen and a pi 2B.<br />
<br />
DC in (12v nominal, 12.10 right now) and ground are available at J7. <br />
<br />
A slightly lower voltage (11.75v right now) is on J4 and TC4. <br />
This is unregulated, with a 14.35v supply it is 14.00v. <br />
<br />
5 volts and ground is available at J3 and TC22. <br />
<br />
3.3 volts and ground is available at U8 and TC16. <br />
<br />
1.25 volts is made by U27. <br />
<br />
It would be nice to know how much 5v current is available...<br />
<br />
=== Power Saving ===<br />
Raspbian seems to try to put the display into some power saving mode. <br />
It fails to turn off the LCD, but the display glitches when you would expect it to turn the LCD back on. <br />
<br />
Well, I turned off DPMS in xorg.conf, and now the screen blanks. <br />
Different, but not really better...<br />
<br />
It would be nice to know exactly what is going on with that...<br />
<br />
=== Buttons ===<br />
It would be nice to figure out how the buttons work. At least 4 of them should come over the USB somehow. <br />
I did not see them in /dev/input/ so they might be connected to the displaylink rather than the HID...</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/Laser_infobaseLaser infobase2013-05-11T17:47:24Z<p>Josh: /* Laser settings */</p>
<hr />
<div>We should keep a list of good sources of materials to use in the laser. We should ALSO keep a good list of configuration settings to get specific results with various materials.<br />
<br />
== Laserable materials sources ==<br />
Please add more materials!<br />
<br />
Sources of acrylic sheeting:<br />
* [http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=442&clickid=popcorn www.usplastic.com]<br />
* [http://www.laserbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=159_175 www.laserbits.com]<br />
* [http://www.estreetplastics.com www.estreetplastics.com]<br />
<br />
Sources of wood sheet for cutting:<br />
* [http://www.laserbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=82_352 www.laserbits.com]<br />
* [http://www.suregrave.com/woodsheets.html www.suregrave.com]<br />
* [http://www.woodcraft.com/family/2004113/plywood.aspx www.woodcraft.com]<br />
* [http://www.woodworkerssource.com/6_plywood.html www.woodworkerssource.com]<br />
<br />
A lot of laser projects require screws to hold the project together (project cases, mechanical devices, etc). This is one of many sites that has socket head cap screws which look sexy and work well:<br />
* [https://www.fastener-express.com www.fastener-express.com]<br />
<br />
== Things you should not put in the laser cutter ==<br />
'''[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Lasercutter#Things_you_should_not_put_in_the_laser_cutter (from Noisebridge)]'''<br />
<br />
'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process]. <br />
<br />
{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"<br />
|-<br />
! Material <br />
! DANGER! <br />
! Cause/Consequence<br />
|-<br />
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather/Moleskine notebooks<br />
| '''Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!''' <br />
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.<br />
|-<br />
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan <br />
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire<br />
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.<br />
|-<br />
| ABS <br />
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt <br />
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).<br />
|-<br />
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic <br />
| Catches fire and melts <br />
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.<br />
|-<br />
| PolyStyrene Foam <br />
| Catches fire <br />
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!<br />
|-<br />
| PolyPropylene Foam<br />
| Catches fire<br />
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.<br />
|-<br />
| Fiberglass <br />
| Emits fumes <br />
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)<br />
|-<br />
| Coated Carbon Fiber <br />
| Emits noxious fumes <br />
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.<br />
|-<br />
| Any powder<br />
|<br />
| the compressed air will blow it away<br />
|-<br />
| Bare metal<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Animals<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| People<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Butane lighters<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Gasoline or other liquids<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Laser settings ==<br />
Imagine you want to cut through stickers but leave the backing intact. What power and dpi did you use for this last time? Lets keep that info here!<br />
<br />
I directly stole this from NYC Resistor's laser page!<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! rowspan="2" | Focus*<br />
! colspan="3" | Vector <br />
! colspan="3" | Raster<br />
! rowspan="2" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed !! Power !! Freq !! Speed !! Power !! DPI<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards<br />
|-<br />
| Bainbridge board "172" || || 45 || 60 || 500 || || || || Slot width ~1.28mm<br />
|-<br />
| Card Stock 110 lb || || 62|| 22 || 2500 || 100 || 5 || || <br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard 1/8" || || 30 || 60 || 500 || 50 || 15 || || Conservative, try a speed of 35 or 40<br />
|-<br />
<br />
| Double-layer 1/4" || || 20 || 60 || 500 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Foam Core <br> '''Fire risk--polystyrene foam''' || || 35 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Previously 60/90/2500 - didn't cut all the way through.<br />
|-<br />
| Staples Sticker Paper || || 100 || 7 || 500 || || || || Cuts through sticker but not backing<br />
|-<br />
| USPS thin envelope || || 95 || 20 || 500 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Fabriano 140lbs Watercolor Paper || || || || || 100 || 60 || || Etches in very well, leaving clean paper underneath <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Wood<br />
|-<br />
| Cork 3/32" || +2 || 70 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Works great. McMaster #9487K2<br />
|-<br />
| Luan 1/8 || +2 || 30 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Purchased from Dyke's Lumber off 3rd Avenue (speed of 25 might work better)<br />
|-<br />
| Luan 1/4 || +2 || 5 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Two passes. Purchased from Dyke's Lumber off 3rd Avenue - I THINK THIS IS WRONG - RB<br />
|-<br />
| Luan 1/4 || +2 || 16-18 || 100 || 5000 || || || || I got much better results with 16-18% speed, +2 focus, one pass on 12 Feb 2013 - but it left some attached fibers on the back side. A second quick pass at +5 maybe? - RB<br />
|-<br />
| Poplar wood 1/4" || || 17 || 100 || 500 || || || || Not sure about the frequency, seems to work at lower ones too <br />
|-<br />
| MakerBot wood 5 mm || || 7 || 100 || 500 || || || || Manual focus is key. Move the bed up until the metal focusing thing just touches the plywood surface. Then move the bed up by pressing the Up button five times. Hit Reset and then Go. Rock! Then move the bed up another five pushes and run again at 50% speed.<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood, unknown, 1/8" || || 7 || 100 || 500 || || || || even 1/8" plywood takes two passes at 7 or 6% speed. Lots of charring.<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Plastics<br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 0.02" White Sheeting || || 20 || 60 || 500|| || || || Needs to be taped absolutely flat to cutting sheet, otherwise it won't cut through, higher settings incinerate the delrin. <br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 0.93" Black || || 8 || 100 || 500|| || || || Mcmaster, Delrin 150 <br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 3/16" || || 6 || 100 || 500|| || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 3/16" || || 10 || 100 || 500|| || || || Two passes with these settings works well<br />
|-<br />
| Acetal black, etching || || || || || 100 || 70|| 300 || engraves 0.006" deep on black acetal<br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 100 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.009" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 60 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.010" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 10 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.020" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 7 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.025" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 5 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.033" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 3 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.045", transient flames visible<br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 2 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.060", transient flames visible<br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 5 mm" || || 3 || 100 || 500|| || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (color) 1/8" || || 9 || 100 || 5000 || 100 || 35 || 600 || Copied engraving settings from Nintendo DS - tested on colored acrylic, worked great <br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear) 1/4" || || 8 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Book says 4%, 8% seems perfect after the new tube <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 30 || 80 || 300 || engraves 0.015" deep on clear acrylic<br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 30 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.02" deep at 1'06" per sq in<br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 20 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.03" deep <br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 10 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.05" deep at 3'00" per sq in<br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 5 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.09" deep at 5'44" per sq in<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear) 5 mm || || 7 || 100 || 5000 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
| ABS - Hammond MFG 1553D Enclosure || || 12 || 100 || 5000 || 100 || 65 || 600 || Raster settings a work in progress, based on acrylic; 75 too much for busy bitmaps, 55 too little detail. Weird results 'cuz of textured finish on enclosure<br />
|-<br />
| HDPE 1/8" || || 40 || 100 || auto|| || || || Takes about 4 passes, keeps melting together<br />
|-<br />
| Kapton 0.005" || || || || || || || || The settings for 4 mil Mylar only cut part way through<br />
|-<br />
| Mylar 0.005" || || 100 || 15 || 5000|| || || || Make sure the aluminum side is down.<br />
|-<br />
| Polyethylene foam 2.2 lb 1/4" || || 60 || 100 || 5000|| || || || (via kellbot) [http://www.closedcellfoams.com/polyethylene.html]<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Other<br />
|-<br />
| Chocolate || || || || || 100 || 30 || 300 || It melts. Don't cut! (via [http://www.instructables.com/id/Pure-Decadence---Laser-Etched-Chocolate-Bar Squid Labs])<br />
|-<br />
| Compressed Sponge || || 100 || 100 || 1000 || || || ||<br />
|-<br />
| Leather (1-2mm) || || 40 || 50 || 1000 || || || || Leather can be pressed by ironing the backside with a layer of tissue between the iron and the leather. Masking tape on the backside also helps it lay flat. Smells bad.<br />
|-<br />
| Leather (3-4mm) || || 40 || 50 || 1000 || || || || Needs two passes. Depending on the tanning process, you may have burned edges.<br />
|-<br />
| Neoprene (2mm) || || 30 || 100 || 1000 || || || || Like BUTTAH. Not sure about toxicity. We'll see if I survive.<br />
|-<br />
| Cotton (will darken) || || || || || 60 || 20 || 200 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Buffalo Horn (5mm) || || 6 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Same settings as 1/4" acrylic, depending on depth, may work faster speed, smells pretty awful<br />
|-<br />
| HP Laptop - ETCH || || 100 || 23 || 2500 || || || || Vector etch pattern, probably could have been slightly lower-power<br />
|-<br />
| iPhone rev 1.0 || || || || || 100 || 40 || 600 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Mini Moleskins ( cardboard brown )|| || || || || 100 || 69 || 600 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Nintendo DS 1st Ed. || || || || || 100 || 35 || 600 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Quartz(?) rocks || || || || || 20 || 100 || || <br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic felt (black) || || 40 || 50 || 800 || || || || Felt is porous; needed a cardboard or masking tape backing so the laser could focus. Also, these settings cut a wide kerf. Experimenter recommends a faster speed (maybe 100) and lower power. May help to iron the felt with a fabric iron first, so it's nice and flat.<br />
|-<br />
| 100% Wool felt (beige) || || 40 || 50 || 800 || || || || May help to iron the felt with a fabric iron first, so it's nice and flat, then aid focus and flatness by applying masking tape to the back of the felt. Tape also prevents burn schmutz from sticking to felt. Smells nasty, bring a ziplock bag to transfer your cutouts into.<br />
|-<br />
| NiAg 752 "german silver" || || || || || || || || Doesn't work at all, even for etching. save yourself from the frustration :P<br />
|-<br />
| <strong>Speedball Speedy-Cut Easy (rubber stamps)</strong>|| || || || || 80 || 100 || || Very noxious, would not cut again. Created large amounts of debris, not good. Otherwise cutting was good, 2 passes at these settings. <br />
|-<br />
| Mirror ~ glass side || || || || || 35 || 100 || || Do not vector cut. Raster makes pretty pictures on glass.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Laser]]</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/Laser_infobaseLaser infobase2013-05-11T17:45:46Z<p>Josh: /* Laser settings */</p>
<hr />
<div>We should keep a list of good sources of materials to use in the laser. We should ALSO keep a good list of configuration settings to get specific results with various materials.<br />
<br />
== Laserable materials sources ==<br />
Please add more materials!<br />
<br />
Sources of acrylic sheeting:<br />
* [http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=442&clickid=popcorn www.usplastic.com]<br />
* [http://www.laserbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=159_175 www.laserbits.com]<br />
* [http://www.estreetplastics.com www.estreetplastics.com]<br />
<br />
Sources of wood sheet for cutting:<br />
* [http://www.laserbits.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=82_352 www.laserbits.com]<br />
* [http://www.suregrave.com/woodsheets.html www.suregrave.com]<br />
* [http://www.woodcraft.com/family/2004113/plywood.aspx www.woodcraft.com]<br />
* [http://www.woodworkerssource.com/6_plywood.html www.woodworkerssource.com]<br />
<br />
A lot of laser projects require screws to hold the project together (project cases, mechanical devices, etc). This is one of many sites that has socket head cap screws which look sexy and work well:<br />
* [https://www.fastener-express.com www.fastener-express.com]<br />
<br />
== Things you should not put in the laser cutter ==<br />
'''[https://www.noisebridge.net/wiki/Lasercutter#Things_you_should_not_put_in_the_laser_cutter (from Noisebridge)]'''<br />
<br />
'''WARNING''': Because many plastics are dangerous to cut, it is important to know what kind you are planning to use. Make has a How-To for identifying unknown plastics with [http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/09/identifying-unknown-plastics.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%29&utm_content=Google+Reader a simple process]. <br />
<br />
{| cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" border="1" align="center"<br />
|-<br />
! Material <br />
! DANGER! <br />
! Cause/Consequence<br />
|-<br />
| PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather/Moleskine notebooks<br />
| '''Emits pure chlorine gas when cut!''' <br />
| Don't ever cut this material as it will ruin the optics, cause the metal of the machine to corrode, and ruin the motion control system.<br />
|-<br />
| Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan <br />
| Cut very poorly, discolor, catch fire<br />
| Polycarbonate is often found as flat, sheet material. The window of the laser cutter is made of Polycarbonate because ''polycarbonate strongly absorbs infrared radiation!'' This is the frequency of light the laser cutter uses to cut materials, so it is very ineffective at cutting polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is a poor choice for laser cutting.<br />
|-<br />
| ABS <br />
| Emits cyanide gas and tends to melt <br />
| ABS does not cut well in a laser cutter. It tends to melt rather than vaporize, and has a higher chance of catching on fire and leaving behind melted gooey deposits on the vector cutting grid. It also does not engrave well (again, tends to melt).<br />
|-<br />
| HDPE/milk bottle plastic <br />
| Catches fire and melts <br />
| It melts. It gets gooey. Don't use it.<br />
|-<br />
| PolyStyrene Foam <br />
| Catches fire <br />
| It catches fire, it melts, and only thin pieces cut. This is the #1 material that causes laser fires!!!<br />
|-<br />
| PolyPropylene Foam<br />
| Catches fire<br />
| Like PolyStyrene, it melts, catches fire, and the melted drops continue to burn and turn into rock-hard drips and pebbles.<br />
|-<br />
| Fiberglass <br />
| Emits fumes <br />
| It's a mix of two materials that cant' be cut. Glass (etch, no cut) and epoxy resin (fumes)<br />
|-<br />
| Coated Carbon Fiber <br />
| Emits noxious fumes <br />
| A mix of two materials. Thin carbon fiber mat can be cut, with some fraying - but not when coated.<br />
|-<br />
| Any powder<br />
|<br />
| the compressed air will blow it away<br />
|-<br />
| Bare metal<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Animals<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| People<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Butane lighters<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|-<br />
| Gasoline or other liquids<br />
|<br />
| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Laser settings ==<br />
Imagine you want to cut through stickers but leave the backing intact. What power and dpi did you use for this last time? Lets keep that info here!<br />
<br />
I directly stole this from NYC Resistor's laser page!<br />
<br />
{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" <br />
|-<br />
! rowspan="2" | Material<br />
! rowspan="2" | Focus*<br />
! colspan="3" | Vector <br />
! colspan="3" | Raster<br />
! rowspan="2" | Notes<br />
|-<br />
! Speed !! Power !! Freq !! Speed !! Power !! DPI<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Cardboards<br />
|-<br />
| Bainbridge board "172" || || 45 || 60 || 500 || || || || Slot width ~1.28mm<br />
|-<br />
| Card Stock 110 lb || || 62|| 22 || 2500 || 100 || 5 || || <br />
|-<br />
| Cardboard 1/8" || || 30 || 60 || 500 || 50 || 15 || || Conservative, try a speed of 35 or 40<br />
|-<br />
<br />
| Double-layer 1/4" || || 20 || 60 || 500 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Foam Core <br> '''Fire risk--polystyrene foam''' || || 35 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Previously 60/90/2500 - didn't cut all the way through.<br />
|-<br />
| Staples Sticker Paper || || 100 || 7 || 500 || || || || Cuts through sticker but not backing<br />
|-<br />
| USPS thin envelope || || 95 || 20 || 500 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Fabriano 140lbs Watercolor Paper || || || || || 100 || 60 || || Etches in very well, leaving clean paper underneath <br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Wood<br />
|-<br />
| Cork 3/32" || +2 || 70 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Works great. McMaster #9487K2<br />
|-<br />
| Luan 1/8 || +2 || 30 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Purchased from Dyke's Lumber off 3rd Avenue (speed of 25 might work better)<br />
|-<br />
| Luan 1/4 || +2 || 5 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Two passes. Purchased from Dyke's Lumber off 3rd Avenue - I THINK THIS IS WRONG - RB<br />
|-<br />
| Luan 1/4 || +2 || 16-18 || 100 || 5000 || || || || I got much better results with 16-18% speed, +2 focus, one pass on 12 Feb 2013 - but it left some attached fibers on the back side. A second quick pass at +5 maybe? - RB<br />
|-<br />
| Poplar wood 1/4" || || 17 || 100 || 500 || || || || Not sure about the frequency, seems to work at lower ones too <br />
|-<br />
| MakerBot wood 5 mm || || 7 || 100 || 500 || || || || Manual focus is key. Move the bed up until the metal focusing thing just touches the plywood surface. Then move the bed up by pressing the Up button five times. Hit Reset and then Go. Rock! Then move the bed up another five pushes and run again at 50% speed.<br />
|-<br />
| Plywood, unknown, 1/8" || || 7 || 100 || 500 || || || || even 1/8" plywood takes two passes at 7 or 6% speed. Lots of charring.<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Plastics<br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 0.02" White Sheeting || || 20 || 60 || 500|| || || || Needs to be taped absolutely flat to cutting sheet, otherwise it won't cut through, higher settings incinerate the delrin. <br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 0.93" Black || || 8 || 100 || 500|| || || || Mcmaster, Delrin 150 <br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 3/16" || || 6 || 100 || 500|| || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 3/16" || || 10 || 100 || 500|| || || || Two passes with these settings works well<br />
|-<br />
| Acetal black, etching || || || || || 100 || 70|| 300 || engraves 0.006" deep on black acetal<br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 100 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.009" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 60 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.010" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 10 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.020" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 7 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.025" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 5 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.033" <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 3 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.045", transient flames visible<br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 2 || 100|| 300 || engraves 0.060", transient flames visible<br />
|-<br />
| Acetal 5 mm" || || 3 || 100 || 500|| || || || <br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (color) 1/8" || || 9 || 100 || 5000 || 100 || 35 || 600 || Copied engraving settings from Nintendo DS - tested on colored acrylic, worked great <br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear) 1/4" || || 8 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Book says 4%, 8% seems perfect after the new tube <br />
|-<br />
| || || || || || 30 || 80 || 300 || engraves 0.015" deep on clear acrylic<br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 30 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.02" deep at 1'06" per sq in<br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 20 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.03" deep <br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 10 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.05" deep at 3'00" per sq in<br />
|- <br />
| || || || || || 5 || 100 || 300 || engraves 0.09" deep at 5'44" per sq in<br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic (clear) 5 mm || || 7 || 100 || 5000 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
| ABS - Hammond MFG 1553D Enclosure || || 12 || 100 || 5000 || 100 || 65 || 600 || Raster settings a work in progress, based on acrylic; 75 too much for busy bitmaps, 55 too little detail. Weird results 'cuz of textured finish on enclosure<br />
|-<br />
| HDPE 1/8" || || 40 || 100 || auto|| || || || Takes about 4 passes, keeps melting together<br />
|-<br />
| Kapton 0.005" || || || || || || || || The settings for 4 mil Mylar only cut part way through<br />
|-<br />
| Mylar 0.005" || || 100 || 15 || 5000|| || || || Make sure the aluminum side is down.<br />
|-<br />
| Polyethylene foam 2.2 lb 1/4" || || 60 || 100 || 5000|| || || || (via kellbot) [http://www.closedcellfoams.com/polyethylene.html]<br />
|-<br />
! colspan="9" bgcolor="#cccccc" | Other<br />
|-<br />
| Chocolate || || || || || 100 || 30 || 300 || It melts. Don't cut! (via [http://www.instructables.com/id/Pure-Decadence---Laser-Etched-Chocolate-Bar Squid Labs])<br />
|-<br />
| Compressed Sponge || || 100 || 100 || 1000 || || || ||<br />
|-<br />
| Leather (1-2mm) || || 40 || 50 || 1000 || || || || Leather can be pressed by ironing the backside with a layer of tissue between the iron and the leather. Masking tape on the backside also helps it lay flat. Smells bad.<br />
|-<br />
| Leather (3-4mm) || || 40 || 50 || 1000 || || || || Needs two passes. Depending on the tanning process, you may have burned edges.<br />
|-<br />
| Neoprene (2mm) || || 30 || 100 || 1000 || || || || Like BUTTAH. Not sure about toxicity. We'll see if I survive.<br />
|-<br />
| Cotton (will darken) || || || || || 60 || 20 || 200 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Buffalo Horn (5mm) || || 6 || 100 || 5000 || || || || Same settings as 1/4" acrylic, depending on depth, may work faster speed, smells pretty awful<br />
|-<br />
| HP Laptop - ETCH || || 100 || 23 || 2500 || || || || Vector etch pattern, probably could have been slightly lower-power<br />
|-<br />
| iPhone rev 1.0 || || || || || 100 || 40 || 600 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Mini Moleskins ( cardboard brown )|| || || || || 100 || 69 || 600 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Nintendo DS 1st Ed. || || || || || 100 || 35 || 600 ||<br />
|-<br />
| Quartz(?) rocks || || || || || 20 || 100 || || <br />
|-<br />
| Acrylic felt (black) || || 40 || 50 || 800 || || || || Felt is porous; needed a cardboard or masking tape backing so the laser could focus. Also, these settings cut a wide kerf. Experimenter recommends a faster speed (maybe 100) and lower power. May help to iron the felt with a fabric iron first, so it's nice and flat.<br />
|-<br />
| 100% Wool felt (beige) || || 40 || 50 || 800 || || || || May help to iron the felt with a fabric iron first, so it's nice and flat, then aid focus and flatness by applying masking tape to the back of the felt. Tape also prevents burn schmutz from sticking to felt. Smells nasty, bring a ziplock bag to transfer your cutouts into.<br />
|-<br />
| NiAg 752 "german silver" || || || || || || || || Doesn't work at all, even for etching. save yourself from the frustration :P<br />
|-<br />
| <strong>Speedball Speedy-Cut Easy (rubber stamps)</strong>|| || || || || 80 || 100 || || Very noxious, would not cut again. Created large amounts of debris, not good. Otherwise cutting was good, 2 passes at these settings. <br />
|-<br />
| Mirror ~ glass side || || 35 || 100 || 500 || 50 || 15 || || Conservative, try a speed of 35 or 40<br />
|}<br />
<br />
[[Category:Laser]]</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/RepRap_Prusa_i2RepRap Prusa i22013-03-23T01:22:06Z<p>Josh: </p>
<hr />
<div>* History of my machine<br />
<br />
I started my building of a RepRap after much research of which machine to build. About 6 months ago, I finally decided to build a Prusa i2. The design was stable (for an open source project), and many people knew the failure modes in which the machine could be subjected to. When I started, I wanted the knowledge and understanding of building this for myself. Many a times, when people buy 3d printer kits, things go wrong, and not always how to fix them.<br />
<br />
I started, with the first question: which printer?<br />
<br />
* Prusa i2<br />
* MendelMax - $150 more than Prusa i2<br />
* Rostock - Delta printer, at the time had unstable firmware<br />
* Wallace - I wanted a bigger build envelope<br />
<br />
There were a few more, but what stuck to my budget was the trusty design by Josef Prusa. I am revisiting in building a Rostick, as the firmware for handling a non-Cartesian printer is much more stable. <br />
<br />
The next question: Metric or SAE? To me, this wasn't a question: metric is extensively used in science, programming and open source projects. The SAE version has problems too, regarding the Z axis. I will touch on this later. The easy answer was Metric.<br />
<br />
Now, when you buy parts for a RepRap, the frame pieces have been printed by another printer. So, the innovative way to work with this is to head to eBay or to irc.freenode.net #reprap and buy a kit for the printer you're building... But not that simple! Fun questions arose when asked about the extruder and the LM8UU's... huh?<br />
<br />
The LM8UU is a linear bearing that interfaces the smooth rod stock (for movement across the axes). As with any open source project, improvements are constantly being made. This improvement was switching from printed bearings made of plastic, to proper ball bearing enclosed cylinders of steel. The different printed part is a part that holds the LM8UU and uses a ziptie to hold the bearing in place. They added about $10 to the cost, yet provide much better and smoother motion.<br />
<br />
The other choice I made was about the extruder, or what we call the [[Cold End]]. There's quite a few different types. Many of them vary from the standard called the Wade Extruder. It contains a frame that holds 2 608 skate bearings, a hobbed bolt for grabbing filament, a spring tensioner system for holding filament, a stepper motor, and reduction gears to drive the hobbed bolt. The kit I bought had Greg Frost's Wade Extruder.<br />
<br />
After ordering plastic parts, I then went to order my rod stock I needed. I had no easy way to cut them, so I invested in a $7 hacksaw and sized and cut them by hand. The thread pitch on M8 thread rod is 1.25mm, so I could calculate exactly where I needed to cut.<br />
<br />
I ordered my electronics package from eBay user RepRapDiscount. She's one of the best in the world for a full electronics package (aside from steppers). Her package also included a heated bed place, which is essential for working with ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate.<br />
<br />
I also ordered my hotend (where the plastic is heated and comes out) from IRC user thejollygrimreap. His hotend, unlike many on the market, is made completely of metal. While no plastic needs super hot temperatures, this hotend can reach up to 575C. Most other hotends contain PFTE, which is also known as Teflon. Teflon turns to a liquid-glass state around 250C and causes a printhead jam and failure.<br />
<br />
I attended the MRRF and got my last few parts on my printer assembled. I spend quite a while calibrating the E Steps, which translates motor motion to exact measurements. So if I print a 25mm square, it actually prints 25mm by 25mm. I got calibration done. And I start trying to print, and nothing...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* 3/20/2013<br />
<br />
I end up aimlessly trying to figure out what's wrong. I pack away from MRRF, and head back to Bloomington. I get on IRC, and JollyGrimReap is there. He helps me by discussing PID tuning. PID controls are for adjusting when to turn on and off to maintain a constant heat. It stands for proportional, integral, derivative. I tune my PID, with a GCode M303 S150 and off it goes. In console, after 10-ish minutes, it spits back the numbers for my hotend, which are drastically different than the "standard". I put them in, and... and.. HOTEND JAM. What the hell?! Back to IRC. While chatting, I'm removing the jam manually with toothpicks and gently using a screwdriver bit to pick out bits. I had raised the temp to make the print easier, but succeeded in burning the plastic in the hotend. Bummer.<br />
<br />
Back in IRC land, I explain my new predicament. The answer was announced by multiple people: I need a fan on the upper half of my hotend. What's happening is that heat isnt staying down in the tip area, but creeping up and getting just under melting point. When it does this, it solidified into a plug. So, I head off to the Bloominglabs junk room and find a spiffy old CPU fan and attach it to my hotend with zipties. I hook it up to 12v main, so it stays on all the time. I have to recalibrate the PID this time, with a fan present. I start.. and first layer is a SUCCESS!........wha?<br />
<br />
And then, I notice that it quit printing.. It turns out, when JollyGrimReap made the hotends, he used high heat threadtape so the threads wouldnt move under tension and movement. When I burnt out the plastic, I also burnt the threadtape (I thought it was more plastic bits). I failed to realize its purpose. When printing, the hotend threads turned ever-so-slightly, and caused a bigger liquid chamber, causing print error.<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/94150483@N05/8576036337/ Printer printing first layer.]<br />
<br />
Next - I need to buy some high heat thread tape, clean out the end again (this time NOT burnt in), and properly install it in the threading. I'm so close.<br />
<br />
Up next: This printhead was equipped with a .5 mm tip, using a standard M6 thread attachment. I have ordered a .35mm and a .4mm tip to allow finer printing. <br />
I have also bought from an aluminum caster a Cast Wade Extruder. You can see that [http://www.ebay.com/itm/RepRap-3D-Printer-Prusa-Mendel-Wades-Extruder-Aluminum-Unfinished-NEW-/321093128300?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac2a4506c here]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
* 3/22/2013<br />
<br />
I showed back up, and cleaned out the bits of PLA in my hotend this afternoon, and got the PTFE tape applied. I'm now currently in the building, preparing to heat the bed and the hotend to the appropriate temp to start this run. I'm nigh sure I will succeed. Pictures will be made :)</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/RepRap_Prusa_i2RepRap Prusa i22013-03-22T00:12:53Z<p>Josh: Discussion of choice of 3d printer and 'problems'</p>
<hr />
<div>I started my building of a RepRap after much research of which machine to build. About 6 months ago, I finally decided to build a Prusa i2. The design was stable (for an open source project), and many people knew the failure modes in which the machine could be subjected to. When I started, I wanted the knowledge and understanding of building this for myself. Many a times, when people buy 3d printer kits, things go wrong, and not always how to fix them.<br />
<br />
I started, with the first question: which printer?<br />
<br />
* Prusa i2<br />
* MendelMax - $150 more than Prusa i2<br />
* Rostock - Delta printer, at the time had unstable firmware<br />
* Wallace - I wanted a bigger build envelope<br />
<br />
There were a few more, but what stuck to my budget was the trusty design by Josef Prusa. I am revisiting in building a Rostick, as the firmware for handling a non-Cartesian printer is much more stable. <br />
<br />
The next question: Metric or SAE? To me, this wasn't a question: metric is extensively used in science, programming and open source projects. The SAE version has problems too, regarding the Z axis. I will touch on this later. The easy answer was Metric.<br />
<br />
Now, when you buy parts for a RepRap, the frame pieces have been printed by another printer. So, the innovative way to work with this is to head to eBay or to irc.freenode.net #reprap and buy a kit for the printer you're building... But not that simple! Fun questions arose when asked about the extruder and the LM8UU's... huh?<br />
<br />
The LM8UU is a linear bearing that interfaces the smooth rod stock (for movement across the axes). As with any open source project, improvements are constantly being made. This improvement was switching from printed bearings made of plastic, to proper ball bearing enclosed cylinders of steel. The different printed part is a part that holds the LM8UU and uses a ziptie to hold the bearing in place. They added about $10 to the cost, yet provide much better and smoother motion.<br />
<br />
The other choice I made was about the extruder, or what we call the [[Cold End]]. There's quite a few different types. Many of them vary from the standard called the Wade Extruder. It contains a frame that holds 2 608 skate bearings, a hobbed bolt for grabbing filament, a spring tensioner system for holding filament, a stepper motor, and reduction gears to drive the hobbed bolt. The kit I bought had Greg Frost's Wade Extruder.<br />
<br />
After ordering plastic parts, I then went to order my rod stock I needed. I had no easy way to cut them, so I invested in a $7 hacksaw and sized and cut them by hand. The thread pitch on M8 thread rod is 1.25mm, so I could calculate exactly where I needed to cut.<br />
<br />
I ordered my electronics package from eBay user RepRapDiscount. She's one of the best in the world for a full electronics package (aside from steppers). Her package also included a heated bed place, which is essential for working with ABS, nylon, and polycarbonate.<br />
<br />
I also ordered my hotend (where the plastic is heated and comes out) from IRC user thejollygrimreap. His hotend, unlike many on the market, is made completely of metal. While no plastic needs super hot temperatures, this hotend can reach up to 575C. Most other hotends contain PFTE, which is also known as Teflon. Teflon turns to a liquid-glass state around 250C and causes a printhead jam and failure.<br />
<br />
I attended the MRRF and got my last few parts on my printer assembled. I spend quite a while calibrating the E Steps, which translates motor motion to exact measurements. So if I print a 25mm square, it actually prints 25mm by 25mm. I got calibration done. And I start trying to print, and nothing...<br />
<br />
* 3/20<br />
I end up aimlessly trying to figure out what's wrong. I pack away from MRRF, and head back to Bloomington. I get on IRC, and JollyGrimReap is there. He helps me by discussing PID tuning. PID controls are for adjusting when to turn on and off to maintain a constant heat. It stands for proportional, integral, derivative. I tune my PID, with a GCode M303 S150 and off it goes. In console, after 10-ish minutes, it spits back the numbers for my hotend, which are drastically different than the "standard". I put them in, and... and.. HOTEND JAM. What the hell?! Back to IRC. While chatting, I'm removing the jam manually with toothpicks and gently using a screwdriver bit to pick out bits. I had raised the temp to make the print easier, but succeeded in burning the plastic in the hotend. Bummer.<br />
<br />
Back in IRC land, I explain my new predicament. The answer was announced by multiple people: I need a fan on the upper half of my hotend. What's happening is that heat isnt staying down in the tip area, but creeping up and getting just under melting point. When it does this, it solidified into a plug. So, I head off to the Bloominglabs junk room and find a spiffy old CPU fan and attach it to my hotend with zipties. I hook it up to 12v main, so it stays on all the time. I have to recalibrate the PID this time, with a fan present. I start.. and first layer is a SUCCESS!........wha?<br />
<br />
And then, I notice that it quit printing.. It turns out, when JollyGrimReap made the hotends, he used high heat threadtape so the threads wouldnt move under tension and movement. When I burnt out the plastic, I also burnt the threadtape (I thought it was more plastic bits). I failed to realize its purpose. When printing, the hotend threads turned ever-so-slightly, and caused a bigger liquid chamber, causing print error.<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/94150483@N05/8576036337/ Printer printing first layer.]<br />
<br />
Next - I need to buy some high heat thread tape, clean out the end again (this time NOT burnt in), and properly install it in the threading. I'm so close.<br />
<br />
Up next: This printhead was equipped with a .5 mm tip, using a standard M6 thread attachment. I have ordered a .35mm and a .4mm tip to allow finer printing. <br />
I have also bought from an aluminum caster a Cast Wade Extruder. You can see that [http://www.ebay.com/itm/RepRap-3D-Printer-Prusa-Mendel-Wades-Extruder-Aluminum-Unfinished-NEW-/321093128300?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac2a4506c here]</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/JoshsProjectsJoshsProjects2013-03-21T23:27:19Z<p>Josh: </p>
<hr />
<div>Greetings Bloominglabs Members and all enterprising makers! I am Josh Crawley, one of the newest members of Bloominglabs.<br />
My interests that brought me here revolve around 3d vision, objects, Atmel, Arduino, programming and the like.<br />
<br />
* I am currently working on my own [[RepRap Prusa i2]] which I shall try better to update.<br />
* My next project will be a 3d laser line scanner. Parts used will be printed by my printer.<br />
<br />
* From 3/15 to 3/17, I also attended the [[Midwest RepRap Festival]], held in Elkhart.</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/JoshsProjectsJoshsProjects2013-03-21T23:26:40Z<p>Josh: Created page with "Greetings Bloominglabs Members and all enterprising makers! I am Josh Crawley, one of the newest members of Bloominglabs. My interests that brought me here revolve around 3d v..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Greetings Bloominglabs Members and all enterprising makers! I am Josh Crawley, one of the newest members of Bloominglabs.<br />
My interests that brought me here revolve around 3d vision, objects, Atmel, Arduino, programming and the like.<br />
<br />
I am currently working on my own [[RepRap Prusa i2]] which I shall try better to update.<br />
My next project will be a 3d laser line scanner. Parts used will be printed by my printer.<br />
<br />
From 3/15 to 3/17, I also attended the [[Midwest RepRap Festival]], held in Elkhart.</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/ProjectsProjects2013-03-21T23:21:11Z<p>Josh: /* Project Index and Resources */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Project Index and Resources ==<br />
* [[Open-HVAC-Control]]<br />
* [[Can-hacking]]<br />
* [[AVR]] Page (robotics club code that we have used in testing AVR)<br />
* [http://embeddeddreams.com/site/2009/07/29/eduino/ EDuino-B] Arduino clones<br />
* [[JenettsProjects]]<br />
* [[dosmansProjects]]<br />
* [[StevesProjects]]<br />
* [[WillsProjects]]<br />
** [[Laser_Interferometer]]<br />
*[[RexsProjects]]<br />
** [[serialbitwisealu]]<br />
*[[JoesProjects]]<br />
*[[NicksProject]]<br />
*[[CharliesProjects]]<br />
* [[JaysProjects]]<br />
*[[JoshsProjects]]<br />
** [[RepRap Prusa i2]]<br />
<br />
== Classes ==<br />
New page for our workshops: [[Workshops]]<br />
<br />
* [[AVR_Class]]<br />
* [[Soldering_Class]]<br />
* [[ArduinoRF_Class]]<br />
<br />
== Group Projects ==<br />
*[[Bloominglabs side-lit LED sign]]<br />
* [[RFID access control]] for our room and the building<br />
* [[Amateur Radio]] use at the space (aka Ham Radio)<br />
<br />
== Potential projects ==<br />
* build a RepRap<br />
* obtain/repair a laser etcher/cutter<br />
* other group projects?<br />
<br />
* build a LittleFe cluster, introduce it to area secondary schools.<br />
** LittleFe is a small educational cluster made of low-powered boards, intended to be portable and able to demonstrate how a small cluster is built and operated. Used in high schools to teach computers and clustering.<br />
** see http://littlefe.net/<br />
** M. Standish at IU is leading this project (I thought I would pitch the idea here in his behalf, hope he agrees)<br />
** already have possible leads on funding<br />
<br />
* build a [http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Word-Clock/ word clock]<br />
<br />
[http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/ee476/FinalProjects/ Cornell AVR Projects Page]</div>Joshhttp://www.bloominglabs.org/index.php/ProjectsProjects2013-03-21T23:20:47Z<p>Josh: /* Project Index and Resources */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Project Index and Resources ==<br />
* [[Open-HVAC-Control]]<br />
* [[Can-hacking]]<br />
* [[AVR]] Page (robotics club code that we have used in testing AVR)<br />
* [http://embeddeddreams.com/site/2009/07/29/eduino/ EDuino-B] Arduino clones<br />
* [[JenettsProjects]]<br />
* [[dosmansProjects]]<br />
* [[StevesProjects]]<br />
* [[WillsProjects]]<br />
** [[Laser_Interferometer]]<br />
*[[RexsProjects]]<br />
** [[serialbitwisealu]]<br />
*[[JoesProjects]]<br />
*[[NicksProject]]<br />
*[[CharliesProjects]]<br />
* [[JaysProjects]]<br />
*[[JoshsProjects]]<br />
* [[RepRap Prusa i2]]<br />
<br />
== Classes ==<br />
New page for our workshops: [[Workshops]]<br />
<br />
* [[AVR_Class]]<br />
* [[Soldering_Class]]<br />
* [[ArduinoRF_Class]]<br />
<br />
== Group Projects ==<br />
*[[Bloominglabs side-lit LED sign]]<br />
* [[RFID access control]] for our room and the building<br />
* [[Amateur Radio]] use at the space (aka Ham Radio)<br />
<br />
== Potential projects ==<br />
* build a RepRap<br />
* obtain/repair a laser etcher/cutter<br />
* other group projects?<br />
<br />
* build a LittleFe cluster, introduce it to area secondary schools.<br />
** LittleFe is a small educational cluster made of low-powered boards, intended to be portable and able to demonstrate how a small cluster is built and operated. Used in high schools to teach computers and clustering.<br />
** see http://littlefe.net/<br />
** M. Standish at IU is leading this project (I thought I would pitch the idea here in his behalf, hope he agrees)<br />
** already have possible leads on funding<br />
<br />
* build a [http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Word-Clock/ word clock]<br />
<br />
[http://instruct1.cit.cornell.edu/courses/ee476/FinalProjects/ Cornell AVR Projects Page]</div>Josh